Super Bulky Ribbed Toe-Up Socks
Skills needed:
Slip Knot
E-wrap
Knit Over / Knit Off
Knit
Wrap & Turn
Purl
Sewn Bind-Off
Weaving-in Loose Ends
Materials needed:
6-8 ounces of Super Bulky Weight Yarn.
60-70 inches of contrasting-color waste-yarn
Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Peg Markers
Loom Pick
Blue 24-Peg Knifty Knitter Loom
PEG
(12) 13
11 14
10 15
9 16
8 17
7 18
6 19
5 20
4 21
3 22
2 23
(1) 24
Refer to the above diagram.
With the loom in the above position.
Place peg-markers on pegs 12 and 1.
I knit a sock tightly on the Knifty Knitter Loom.
My gauge on this sock is 6 sts and 10 rows in 2x2 inches.
The Short-Row Toe:
With Waste Yarn of contrasting color, place Slip Knot on PEG.
1. E-wrap pegs 1 to 12.
2. E-wrap pegs 12 to 1. KO.
3. E-wrap pegs 1 to 12. KO.
4. E-wrap pegs 12 to 1. KO.
Undo waste yarn slip knot from PEG.
Leaving a 6 inch tail, place a Slip Knot of working yarn on PEG.
Cast-on: Wrap behind peg 13 and E-wrap pegs 12 to 1. KO.
Place Stitch Marker in loop of working yarn on pegs 12 and 1.
Wrap behind peg 24.
(T = wrap & turn)
The directions are on the left and a visual (E = e-wrap)
chart is on the right. In the chart it is (W = wrapped)
relatively easy to see the hourglass shape (2 = 2 over 1)
of the short-row toe. The key to the chart (<- work left)
is to the right. (-> work right)
Work back and forth on pegs 1 to 12 as indicated.
Decrease: 12 9 7 5 3 1
Row 1: E-wrap pegs 1 to 11. KO. W&T 12. <- TEEEEEEEEEEE
Row 2: E-wrap pegs 11 to 2. KO. W&T 1. -> WEEEEEEEEEET
Row 3: E-wrap pegs 2 to 10. KO. W&T 11. <- WTEEEEEEEEEW
Row 4: E-wrap pegs 10 to 3. KO. W&T 2. -> WWEEEEEEEETW
Row 5: E-wrap pegs 3 to 9. KO. W&T 10. <- WWTEEEEEEEWW
Row 6: E-wrap pegs 9 to 4. KO. W&T 3. -> WWWEEEEEETWW
Increase:
Row 7: E-wrap pegs 4 to 10. KO, 2-over-1 on 10. <- WW2EEEEEEWWW
Row 8: E-wrap pegs 10 to 3. KO, 2-over-1 on 3. -> WWEEEEEEE2WW
Row 9: E-wrap pegs 3 to 11. KO, 2-over-1 on 11. <- W2EEEEEEEEWW
Row 10: E-wrap pegs 11 to 2. KO, 2-over-1 on 2. -> WEEEEEEEEE2W
Row 11: E-wrap pegs 2 to 12. KO, 2-over-1 on 12. <- 2EEEEEEEEEEW
Row 12: E-wrap pegs 12 to 1. KO, 2-over-1 on 1. -> EEEEEEEEEEE2
Put the loop that is attached to the waste yarn with the stitch marker
from peg 12 on peg 13. Put the next loop on peg 14, and so on, until
all pegs to peg 24 have loops on them. The waste yarn should be free
from the loom. No loops of waste yarn should be on any pegs. The waste
yarn may be removed after all the loops have been placed on the empty
pegs.
The working yarn should be between pegs 1 and 24.
Work from right to left (counterclockwise).
K12. This is the sole of the foot.
K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1. This is the top of the foot with ribbing.
Repeat the above pattern for each round until pegs touch the leg, when
the sock is tried-on. I place a stitch marker every ten rounds on the
sole of the foot, to keep track of how many rounds I've done. Not
counting the toe, this sock was 34 rounds in length. The heel was
started on the 35th round. Your length will probably be different.
The Short-Row Heel Turn:
(T = wrap&turn)
The directions are on the left and a visual (K = knit)
chart is on the right. In the chart it is (W = wrapped)
relatively easy to see the hourglass shape (2 = 2 over 1)
of the short-row heel. The key to the chart (<- work left)
is to the right. (-> work right)
Work back and forth on pegs 1 to 12 as indicated.
Decrease: 12 9 7 5 3 1
Row 1: Knit pegs 1 to 11. W&T 12. <- TKKKKKKKKKKK
Row 2: Knit pegs 11 to 2. W&T 1. -> WKKKKKKKKKKT
Row 3: Knit pegs 2 to 10. W&T 11. <- WTKKKKKKKKKW
Row 4: Knit pegs 10 to 3. W&T 2. -> WWKKKKKKKKTW
Row 5: Knit pegs 3 to 9. W&T 10. <- WWTKKKKKKKWW
Row 6: Knit pegs 9 to 4. W&T 3. -> WWWKKKKKKTWW
Row 7: Knit pegs 4 to 8. W&T 9. <- WWWTKKKKKWWW
Row 8: Knit pegs 8 to 5. W&T 4. -> WWWWKKKKTWWW
Increase:
Row 9: Knit pegs 5 to 9. 2-over-1 on 9. <- WWW2KKKKWWWW
Row 10: Knit pegs 9 to 4. 2-over-1 on 4. -> WWWKKKKK2WWW
Row 11: Knit pegs 4 to 10. 2-over-1 on 10. <- WW2KKKKKKWWW
Row 12: Knit pegs 10 to 3. 2-over-1 on 3. -> WWKKKKKKK2WW
Row 13: Knit pegs 3 to 11. 2-over-1 on 11. <- W2KKKKKKKKWW
Row 14: Knit pegs 11 to 2. 2-over-1 on 2. -> WKKKKKKKKK2W
Row 15: Knit pegs 2 to 12. 2-over-1 on 12. <- 2KKKKKKKKKKW
Row 16: Knit pegs 12 to 1. 2-over-1 on 1. -> KKKKKKKKKKK2
The working yarn should be between pegs 1 and 24.
K12. This is the sole of the foot.
K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1. This is the top of the foot with ribbing.
Repeat the above pattern for 10 rounds above the top of the heel.
At peg 1, start the K2, P2 Ribbing, and work this pattern for the
remainder of the sock leg.
Finish the sock by threading the last of the yarn onto a tapestry
needle and doing a sewn bind-off all around. Weave the loose ends
in.
Toe Up Slippers Pattern
Created by Deb Saunders (debsueky)
Supplies Needed:
One skein 4-ply worsted weight yarn
Blue Knifty Knitter loom
Looming tool
Tapestry needle
Directions:
Begin with the toe section:
Holding two strands together as one, make a slip knot and attach
the yarn to peg #12.
Cast on by e-wrapping from peg 12 back to peg 1, and continue back
to include peg 24.
Wrap pegs 1 thru 12, knit off, and turn on peg 13.
Wrap pegs 12 thru 2, knit off, and turn on peg 1.
Wrap pegs 2 thru 11, knit off, and turn on peg 12.
Wrap pegs 11 thru 3, knit off, and turn on peg 2.
Wrap pegs 3 thru 10, knit off, and turn on peg 11.
Wrap pegs 10 thru 4, knit off, and turn on peg 3.
Wrap pegs 4 thru 11 and knit off.
Wrap pegs 11 thru 3 and knit off.
Wrap pegs 3 thru 12 and knit off.
Wrap pegs 12 thru 2 and knit off.
Wrap pegs 2 thru 13 and knit off.
Wrap pegs 13 thru 1 and knit off.
Take the loops from the starting edge and hook them onto the
empty pegs (13 thru 24).
For the ankle section, wrap and knit off all pegs (1 thru 24) for
5 rows.
For the cuff, do 5 rows of ribbing (knit the odd numbered pegs and
purl the even numbered pegs).
Cast off using the flat removal method. Weave in yarn tails using
the tapestry needle.
Done!
Notes:
To "turn on peg X," if there is a loop on the peg, lift it off with
the looming tool, run the yarn behind the peg, then return the loop
to the peg. If there is no loop already on the peg, just run the
yarn behind the peg.
When knitting off a peg with more than 2 loops on it, knit off all
the extra loops, leaving just one on the peg.
The flat removal method creates a fairly tight opening. You may prefer
to add a chain stitch between loops.
(See http://decoraccentsinc.com/flat_removal_method.html for more
detailed removal instructions.)
In the above photo, I've just finished working the Short Row Heel, and am starting the Foot.
On the first sock I made a small modification on one side of the heel, and worked the pattern as is, on the other side of the heel. With the modification, there’s no hole, and without the modification, there’s a hole. In the second sock’s heel, I worked my modification into the pattern, and there’s no hole on either side of the heel. That’s gratifying.
The modification is very simple. Knitting the leg is pretty straightforward. Then comes Working the Short Row Heel, which is worked on half the pegs as a flat panel. I followed all the Row steps until I got to Row 15 and Row 16. I made my modifications here. Actually, you can see that there will be a hole at these places, as you are knitting on the loom. Here’s what I did to eliminate the hole:
Row 15: K11 (from peg 2-12). Knit 2 over 1 on peg 12.
Modification: W&T peg 13
Row 16: K12 (from peg 12-1). Knit 2 over 1 on peg 1.
Modification: W&T peg 24 (one peg past peg 1 )
Then, when you work the Sock Foot, on the first round, you’ll simply knit 2 over 1 on pegs 13 and 24, and keep on going. No hole! That’s my experience, anyway.
I tried different ways of binding off the toe, which is why the toes look different in the picture on my Projects page. I’m still learning, and I experiment whenever I can.
Here are some pix of the finished socks.
