Monday, March 29, 2010

Knifty Knitter Circular Loom Socks 03


You can wear these socks with your Birkies...



Or wear them with Garden Clogs...



Or just lounging around on the Porch...



Or as snuggly House Socks!





Super Bulky Ribbed Toe-Up Socks

Skills needed:

Slip Knot
E-wrap
Knit Over / Knit Off
Knit
Wrap & Turn
Purl
Sewn Bind-Off
Weaving-in Loose Ends

Materials needed:

6-8 ounces of Super Bulky Weight Yarn.
60-70 inches of contrasting-color waste-yarn
Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Peg Markers
Loom Pick
Blue 24-Peg Knifty Knitter Loom

PEG
(12) 13
11 14
10 15
9 16
8 17
7 18
6 19
5 20
4 21
3 22
2 23
(1) 24

Refer to the above diagram.
With the loom in the above position.
Place peg-markers on pegs 12 and 1.

I knit a sock tightly on the Knifty Knitter Loom.
My gauge on this sock is 6 sts and 10 rows in 2x2 inches.

The Short-Row Toe:



With Waste Yarn of contrasting color, place Slip Knot on PEG.
1. E-wrap pegs 1 to 12.
2. E-wrap pegs 12 to 1. KO.
3. E-wrap pegs 1 to 12. KO.
4. E-wrap pegs 12 to 1. KO.
Undo waste yarn slip knot from PEG.

Leaving a 6 inch tail, place a Slip Knot of working yarn on PEG.
Cast-on: Wrap behind peg 13 and E-wrap pegs 12 to 1. KO.
Place Stitch Marker in loop of working yarn on pegs 12 and 1.
Wrap behind peg 24.

(T = wrap & turn)
The directions are on the left and a visual (E = e-wrap)
chart is on the right. In the chart it is (W = wrapped)
relatively easy to see the hourglass shape (2 = 2 over 1)
of the short-row toe. The key to the chart (<- work left)
is to the right. (-> work right)

Work back and forth on pegs 1 to 12 as indicated.

Decrease: 12 9 7 5 3 1
Row 1: E-wrap pegs 1 to 11. KO. W&T 12. <- TEEEEEEEEEEE
Row 2: E-wrap pegs 11 to 2. KO. W&T 1. -> WEEEEEEEEEET
Row 3: E-wrap pegs 2 to 10. KO. W&T 11. <- WTEEEEEEEEEW
Row 4: E-wrap pegs 10 to 3. KO. W&T 2. -> WWEEEEEEEETW
Row 5: E-wrap pegs 3 to 9. KO. W&T 10. <- WWTEEEEEEEWW
Row 6: E-wrap pegs 9 to 4. KO. W&T 3. -> WWWEEEEEETWW
Increase:
Row 7: E-wrap pegs 4 to 10. KO, 2-over-1 on 10. <- WW2EEEEEEWWW
Row 8: E-wrap pegs 10 to 3. KO, 2-over-1 on 3. -> WWEEEEEEE2WW
Row 9: E-wrap pegs 3 to 11. KO, 2-over-1 on 11. <- W2EEEEEEEEWW
Row 10: E-wrap pegs 11 to 2. KO, 2-over-1 on 2. -> WEEEEEEEEE2W
Row 11: E-wrap pegs 2 to 12. KO, 2-over-1 on 12. <- 2EEEEEEEEEEW
Row 12: E-wrap pegs 12 to 1. KO, 2-over-1 on 1. -> EEEEEEEEEEE2

Put the loop that is attached to the waste yarn with the stitch marker
from peg 12 on peg 13. Put the next loop on peg 14, and so on, until
all pegs to peg 24 have loops on them. The waste yarn should be free
from the loom. No loops of waste yarn should be on any pegs. The waste
yarn may be removed after all the loops have been placed on the empty
pegs.

The working yarn should be between pegs 1 and 24.
Work from right to left (counterclockwise).
K12. This is the sole of the foot.
K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1. This is the top of the foot with ribbing.
Repeat the above pattern for each round until pegs touch the leg, when
the sock is tried-on. I place a stitch marker every ten rounds on the
sole of the foot, to keep track of how many rounds I've done. Not
counting the toe, this sock was 34 rounds in length. The heel was
started on the 35th round. Your length will probably be different.

The Short-Row Heel Turn:
(T = wrap&turn)
The directions are on the left and a visual (K = knit)
chart is on the right. In the chart it is (W = wrapped)
relatively easy to see the hourglass shape (2 = 2 over 1)
of the short-row heel. The key to the chart (<- work left)
is to the right. (-> work right)

Work back and forth on pegs 1 to 12 as indicated.

Decrease: 12 9 7 5 3 1
Row 1: Knit pegs 1 to 11. W&T 12. <- TKKKKKKKKKKK
Row 2: Knit pegs 11 to 2. W&T 1. -> WKKKKKKKKKKT
Row 3: Knit pegs 2 to 10. W&T 11. <- WTKKKKKKKKKW
Row 4: Knit pegs 10 to 3. W&T 2. -> WWKKKKKKKKTW
Row 5: Knit pegs 3 to 9. W&T 10. <- WWTKKKKKKKWW
Row 6: Knit pegs 9 to 4. W&T 3. -> WWWKKKKKKTWW
Row 7: Knit pegs 4 to 8. W&T 9. <- WWWTKKKKKWWW
Row 8: Knit pegs 8 to 5. W&T 4. -> WWWWKKKKTWWW
Increase:
Row 9: Knit pegs 5 to 9. 2-over-1 on 9. <- WWW2KKKKWWWW
Row 10: Knit pegs 9 to 4. 2-over-1 on 4. -> WWWKKKKK2WWW
Row 11: Knit pegs 4 to 10. 2-over-1 on 10. <- WW2KKKKKKWWW
Row 12: Knit pegs 10 to 3. 2-over-1 on 3. -> WWKKKKKKK2WW
Row 13: Knit pegs 3 to 11. 2-over-1 on 11. <- W2KKKKKKKKWW
Row 14: Knit pegs 11 to 2. 2-over-1 on 2. -> WKKKKKKKKK2W
Row 15: Knit pegs 2 to 12. 2-over-1 on 12. <- 2KKKKKKKKKKW
Row 16: Knit pegs 12 to 1. 2-over-1 on 1. -> KKKKKKKKKKK2


The working yarn should be between pegs 1 and 24.
K12. This is the sole of the foot.
K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1. This is the top of the foot with ribbing.
Repeat the above pattern for 10 rounds above the top of the heel.

At peg 1, start the K2, P2 Ribbing, and work this pattern for the
remainder of the sock leg.

Finish the sock by threading the last of the yarn onto a tapestry
needle and doing a sewn bind-off all around. Weave the loose ends
in.




A. Short-Row Toe: 12 rows.
B. Foot: 34 rows.
C. Short-Row Heel: 16 rows.
D. Heel: 10 rows.
E. Leg: 34 rows.

The Short-Row Toe (A.), e-wrapped for elasticity, so the free loops can be stretched onto the empty pegs of the loom (pegs 13 to 24), is worked on half the loom (pegs 1 to 12). The Foot (B.) is knitted in the round, K12 for the sole and K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1 for the instep, which centers the K2, P2 Ribbing pattern that will be knit on the leg. The Short-Row Heel (C.) is knit on half the loom (pegs 1 to 12) for 8 rows of Decreases, then 8 rows of Increases to make the heel turn. The Heel (D.) adds 10 rows in the round to the top of the turned heel because it not only looks better, but I think the Short-Row Heel is too short for a heel. These 10 rows follow the same pattern as the Foot. The Leg (E.) is 34 rows of K2, P2 Ribbing. However, because this sock is Toe-Up, the Leg can be made any length.

10 comments:

  1. No comments yet? I don't know why. I have been watching videos and reading tutorials all over the net before I made my first pair of knifty knitter socks, and this was the only pattern that made something easy AND attractive. And it was fairly easy to understand. There were just a couple of times I was thinking "What? Why does she want me to do THAT?" But I had faith and did what you said and it came out just right. I just have a couple of gap areas but I think that's due to my wrapping incorrectly plus using a size 5 yarn. I think this was designed more for size 6. I'm going to make my second sock now and if I still get gaps, I may be back to ask how you are doing your wraps. :)

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  2. Thanks for the post. Saving this for my to do list

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  3. Merci pour vos bons conseils. bravo

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  4. Thanks for this pattern. It has been very hard to find. I have never tried anything even remotely like this, but I have some time on my hands, which could use an activity. So, can you point me to directions on how to read a pattern, and how to do things such as perl and e-wrap on this sort of device.

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    Replies
    1. LOOM KNITTING SOCKS by Isela Phelps. Also, by the same author: LOOM KNITTING PRIMER and LOOM KNITTING PATERN BOOK. Check World Cat for the books in a library near you, or Used.Addall.Com for a used copy, or Amazon.Com for a used or new copy.

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  5. I've been eyeing the plastic looms for ages, interested as I am in all sorts of needle and yarn crafts but never sure if I would find a good use for them. Now I finally have a great reason to buy a set of looms! These socks look so comfy! Thanks so much for the instructions.

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  6. Hello,
    Do you have a video? Could you make one if possible? Thanks

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    Replies
    1. I am SO sorry. I do not have a video, nor is it possible for me to make one. I watched Knifty Knitter videos on YouTube to learn how to use a Knifty Knitter. I also used my knowledge of how to knit socks on needles to make these socks. Practice, practice and more practice, that is the key.

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