Teaching a Kid to Knit

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I recently had an opportunity to try and teach an 8 years old girl how to knit. I made a pair of wood kintting needles for her from wood beads and 1/4 inch dowel which I sharpened in a pencil sharpener and sanded smooth. The first thing she did was to paint the wood beads with acrylic paint. While the paint was drying, we tried to do some finger knitting, followed by some spool knitting. Finally we started knitting with needles.



I also made a bamboo darning needle for her. I used a bamboo chopstick for the darning needle. I drilled holes for the eye of the needle, then carved it out with an X-Acto knife. I sanded the darning needle smooth, then dipped the eye in fingernail polish.

The little bean bag was a demo piece that I made for her, It is a rectangle in garter stitch, folder over, and sewn together using a blanket stitch. I put beans inside before closing it up.

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I used a spool knitter that I made from an old wood spool and some 1/8th inch dowels. I used worsted weight acrylic yarn to make the I-Cord. I made over 24 feet of I-Cord !

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I decided to use the I-Cord as demo yarn, so I made a pair of wood needles from 7/16ths inch dowel and a couple of wood beads. I sanded the tips on a disc sander to shape them, then hand sanded the dowels smooth.



My young student liked the LARGE needles and yarn very much. She said it was much easier to see everything when I was showing her how to Cast On, Knit, and Bind Off. I also had a lot of fun trying to teach my young student. I hope she will want to continue learning how to knit.

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Knitting Board Sock Loom

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Today I was in JoAnn's fabric store and found a KB Sock Loom for $24.99 USD.

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This is what the package looks like.

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This is a nice little 9x3 inch adjustable hardwood frame loom with a slider, and metal pegs. It comes with a loom hook, a DVD, and a small folded instruction paper.

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This is a diagram of the loom, from the Knitting Board website.. There are also free patterns, videos, and other information at the site.

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This knitting loom is made for knitting with sock yarn.

Fingerless Mitts

I have been trying to get back into knitting, after a long time of not knitting. I have some new bifocal glasses, and I can now see so much better. I decided to make some fingerless mitts instead of socks. I was able to use my sock knitting skills to make these mitts. The pattern is available from here: http://lifeincleveland.blogspot.com/2008/03/mmmalabrigo-glovies.html

I used a worsted weight wool called Malabrigo, in the Ravelry Red color. These mitts were knit on #8 bamboo dpns, up to the last few rows, which were knit on #7 bamboo needles. I actually bought these Japanese bamboo dpns especially for this project. They are very smooth. The Malabrigo wool is very soft, and I enjoyed knitting with it.

Basically, I used the long-tail cast-on to make 32 stitches (8 stitches per dpn) and joined, being careful not to twist. Then I knit 15 rounds in K2 P2 ribbing. I had the wool, so I could make the cuffs longer. Then a couple of rows were knit in stockinette stitch. The next round was the setup round for the gusset. The setup round is to K16, pm, inc 1, K1, inc 1, pm, K to the end of the round. Then a couple of rounds are knit in stockinette stitch, slipping the markers. After that, those three rounds are repeated until there are 13 stitches between the markers. On the increase rounds after the gusset setup round, the markers are slipped, inc 1, K to next marker, inc 1, slip marker, K to end of round.

The thing is, after you do the gusset setup, the marker is between two needles, and it slips off too easy. So what I did was slip some stitches around so there was at least one or two stitches on that needle to hold the marker in place while I was doing the gusset increases.

Finally, after there are 13 stitches between the markers, and two rounds have been knit, it is time to bind off the hole for the thumb. So I knit around to the first marker, took it off, then did a bind-off for 12 stitches. I slipped off the other marker and knit to the end of the round.

The next round is kind of tricky if you don't know this little trick. When you get to the thumb hole, cross the stitches, the same as if joining a cast-on for knitting in the round. This is not mentioned in the pattern. Evidently, it is considered a very common trick of knitting. I did not do this for the first mitt, and the thumb-hole was very stretchy where it was connected.I ended up reinforcing the thumb-hole join with some yarn.

The rest of the mitt is very straightforward. Knit a few rounds in stockinette stitch, then start K2 P2 ribbing. The last few rows of ribbing are done on #7 dpns. Bind-off in-pattern, weave the ends in, and voila, fingerless mitts.

This was a fun, quick project, given as a Valentine's Day gift to my BFF.

More Sock Books

The other day I went to the local used-book emporium and found these reasonably priced sock books.



Simply Socks: 45 Traditional Turkish Patterns to Knit.
Anna Zilboorg.
New York: Lark Books, 1994.
ISBN: 1887374590



Ethnic Socks & Stockings: A Compendium of Eastern Design & Technique.
Priscilla A. Gibson-Roberts.
Soiux Falls, SD: XRX, Inc., 1995.
ISBN: 0964639106




The Twisted Sister's Sock Workbook.
Lynne Vogel.
Loveland, CO: Interweave Press, 2002.
ISBN: 1931499160

I don't know when or even if I will ever get a chance to knit any of the patterns in these books, but they are all gorgeous. Ethnic Socks and Simply Socks are both about Eastern socks, which are knit toe-up, from what I understand. I now have some new glasses, with bifocals, so I am hoping to get back into knitting some toe-up socks.

The other day I got all my yarn out of the box and put it out in the living room to air out. Some of it was starting to get a slight musty smell. Now, after several days of being out in the living room, most of the musty smells are gone. I guess I caught it just in time.

Book Of Socks

This is an awesome sock knitting book!



The Knitter's Book of Socks: The Yarn Lover's Ultimate Guide to Creating Socks That Fit Well, Feel Great, and Last a Lifetime
Clara Parkes.
NY:Potter Craft, 2011.
ISBN(10): 0307586804
ISBN(13): 978-0307586803

Look for it at your local Public Library, or at AddAll.Com.

Darning Socks

I have been a knitting slug for the past few months. The only thing I have knit since I put my 2-at-a-time-toe-up socks project on hiatus is a four foot long deep purple scarf with white fringe, knitted with No.17 straight needles and worsted weight acrylic yarn.

Now I have another project waiting for me to work on it: darning the first pair of wool socks I made. They were my first pair of socks, and I did not know enough to add some nylon thread reinforcement to the heels when I was knitting them, so now one sock has a hole in the heel, and the other sock has a thin place in the heel.

I patched the hole in the heel before I washed the socks. Then I put them in a nylon net bag and washed them in the washing machine on Cold/Cold. The next step is rip out my temporary patch, and do some darning. For the thin spot in the heel of the one sock, I think I can use a techniques called Duplicate Stitch, aka Swedish Darning to repair it. For the hole, I'm not quite sure how I'm going to repair it yet.

Wool Yarn Ball Winder Repair

I took my DIY Wool Winder and DIY Umbrella Swift to the Yarn Festival at the LYS last Friday. The Yarn Campers were showing off all their work from a week of Yarn Camp. Not only had they learned how to knit, but they also learned felting and hand-dyeing yarn as well. They had some beautiful work to show.

My wool winder broke while winding one of the Camper's hanks of hand-dyed yarn, so the LYS's shop winder (a little Royal) was used to finish the last couple of hanks. Before my wool winder broke, all the Campers got a chance to crank it for awhile. My wool winder is brightly painted, and all the gears are exposed, so it is fun to watch while winding yarn.

The wool winder broke for the second time in the same place: where the tube connects to the 10-tooth gear. The first time it broke was shortly after building the prototype. I had only glued the tube to the gear blank. I repaired it by glueing and nailing the tube to the gear blank. The second time it broke in the same place, so now I know that this is a stress point in the machine. I repaired it the second time by drilling three holes equally around and through the gear blank about an inch into the tube. Then I glued the tube to the gear blank, glued wooden dowels into the three holes, and added a drop of glue to the nail holes, and re-nailed it. When the glue dried, I put it back together. This is the fourth time I've taken the wool winder apart and put it back together again. Each time, it runs a little smoother.

The next time it breaks, I think I'll sink the tube into the back of the gear blank, then glue and screw it together. To do that, I'll have to make another longer tube. I put a sketch of my suggested method of repairing this part on this page of the wool winder tutorial

Socks Socks Socks

I just found this book at the local library. 70 winning sock patterns from the Knitter's Magazine contest by 64 sock knitters from the USA, Canada, Iceland, and New Zealand. It was published in 1999, but the patterns are timeless. The Table of Contents lists seven broad categories of socks, including Simple Socks, Kids Socks, Lace Socks, Color Socks, Texture Socks, Whimsical Socks, and Icelandic Socks.

This book is for experienced knitters who want to learn how to knit socks, as well as for sock knitters who are looking for advanced socks challenges. It looks like it is still available from Amazon at a very reasonable price, considering how many patterns there are in it. The reader reviews for this book on Amazon are generally favorable. The biggest complaint is that some of the patterns have mistakes in them. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be an eratta page at the publisher's website. However, there does seem to be an Online Forum called KniTalk. This is the website for Knitter's Magazine, which I recently saw on the magazine rack at my local Borders book store.

I really enjoy finding these older sock knitting books, especially since I'm a beginning sock knitter.

When Knitting Becomes An Obsession

Directed by: Laura Neuvonen
Country: Finland
Year of Production: 2005
Running Time: 6:45

Watch on YouTube.

My Giant Knit-Knit

Yesterday, while at the Tuesday Morning store, I spotted a crank knitting machine. These types of knitting machines usually sell for about $30, but I bought it for $8.61 including tax. It came with two balls of DK weight acrylic yarn, totaling about 70 grams. There was also a plastic needle, a plastic hook tool, a yarn guide, and an instruction manual included.

The eight page instruction manual was written in seven languages, with GB (Great Britain - English) being one of them. Even with English instructions, I doubt that any child would have been able to figure out how to set up the machine, or successfully knit with it, despite it having For Ages 5 & Up on the box.

I have watched some videos on YouTube on how to set up these types of knitting machines, so I was able to figure it out. It only took a few minutes to knit a tube from one of the balls of yarn.

There is a switch on the front of the machine that can be set to circular knitting, or square/rectangular knitting. With it set to circular knitting, it keeps going around and around, making a tube. Set to rectangular knitting, it will go in one direction until it hits a stop, then it must be cranked in the other direction until it hits a stop. Working back and forth creates a flat panel. This machine has 22 needles.

So, what does this have to do with sock knitting, you ask? Well, some of the things I've run across while searching the Web for sock stuff, are sock dyeing blanks. People make knitted fabric on a knitting machine, then dye the fabric in all kinds of colors. The fabric is then unraveled, wound into balls, and socks are knitted from the hand-dyed yarn.

How To Get Want You Want has more information on various crank knitting machines.

For $8.61, I couldn't pass it up. My Giant Knit-Knit is now part of my knitting studio.

Wool Yarn Ball Winder

Instead of constantly updating the wool winder information on the Animation and Automata blog, I decided to make a static web page for it: Wool Yarn Ball Winder. There is also a page for the Umbrella Swift.

That site has more detailed information, and it will be easier to update. So far, I have a Rough Draft finished and uploaded. I'm not a technical writer, so trying to explain how to make a Wool Winder is actually quite difficult. Part of the difficulty stems from trying to make the instructions generic, so that people can make a custom wool winder that does the work they want it to do, rather than slavishly copying the 3:1 ratio wool winder that I made.

I'm also trying to make some new drawings that show more details. I'm doing all the drawings using the KolourPaint program on my Debian GNU/Linux computer. I will continue polishing the tutorial until it reaches a finished state. Anyone with questions can PM me on Ravelry.

Cast-on and Toe Increase

As you can see in the above photo, I'm using a large Ziplock baggie to keep my yarn from getting tangled. The yarn comes out through holes in each side of the top, with the middle of the baggie pressed closed.

Cast-On

Using Judy's Magic Cast-On, I cast-on 20 sts for each sock, then worked one round, remembering to knit into the back of the stitch for the first round on the second side of each sock.

Toe Increases

I calculated that these socks will be 84 sts for the foot and leg. 84 sts equals 100%.

Round 2 (all M1 increases worked with a backward loop increase)

Side 1 (instep)
Sock A: K1, M1R, K to 1 st before the end, M1L, K1.
Sock B: K1, M1R, K to 1 st before the end, M1L, K1.
Rotate

Side 2 (sole)
Sock B: K1, M1R, K to 1 st before the end, M1L, K1.
Sock A: K1, M1R, K to 1 st before the end, M1L, K1.
Rotate

First increase round of socks completed.
Each sock now has 24 sts (12 sts on each side of each sock).

Round 3 (even)
Knit both sides of both socks with no increases.

Next Rounds (increase and knit even)
Repeat the last two rounds (increase and knit even) until 84 total sts

End work at marker having just finished side 2, sock A.
Each sock now has a total of 84 sts.
Each side of each sock now has 42 sts.

This is my row counter for the increases. I have it written down on a piece of paper. I mark each completed round with an "i" then an "e" for increase or even.

rnd   B  A
2-3   24 24 ie
4-5   28 28 ie
6-7   32 32 ie
8-9   36 36 ie
10-11 40 40 ie
12-13 44 44
14-15 48 48
16-17 52 52
18-19 56 56
20-21 60 60
22-23 64 64
24-25 68 68
26-27 72 72
28-29 76 76
30-31 80 80
32-33 84 84

When I reach 84 sts, I'll just start knitting Stockinette Stitch until the sock is about seven inches long from the tip of the toe. Then I'll start the gusset increases.

This yarn is so thin, and the needles are so small that I have to knit with my glasses off so I can see what I'm doing. I still don't have enough experience so that I can knit without looking at what I'm doing.

Gusset Increases, Heel Turn and Heel Flap

The last time this Sample Sock was seen, the toe had been shaped. Knitting the foot in stockinette stitch was very straightforward. When the toe and foot together measured about two inches, it was time to start the Gusset Increases on the sole side of the sock. The instep side of the sock was knit a straight 16 sts each round. The sole side of the sock was increased two sts each round (using the same pattern as for the toe increases), until there were 32 sts total. An even round was knit all around in between every increase round.

The nice thing about doing the gusset like this is, there aren't any stitches to pick-up, like there were in Ann Budd's cuff-down sock. I did not take any pix of the gusset increases in progress. There ended up being 16 sts on the instep needle, and 32 sts on the sole needle. Remember, the instep needle is the one with the stitch marker in the first stitch.

As usual, the heel turn is where the Magic happens. The heel is worked on the sole side of the sock. Starting on the knit side (right side):
Row 1: K8, PM1 (Place Marker 1), K15, sl1 (as if to purl), bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, PM2 on left needle, slip st back to left needle, turn work to the wrong side (purl side).
Row 2: Bring yarn to wrong side for purl stitch. Purl to 2 sts before Marker 1. Sl2 (as if to purl), bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip st back to left-hand needle, turn.
Row 3: (right side) Bring yarn in position to knit. Knit to 2 sts before previously wrapped stitch. sl1 (as if to purl), bring yarn to wrap st, slip st back to left needle, turn.
Row 4: (wrong side) Bring yarn in position to purl. Purl to 2 sts before previously wrapped stitch. sl1 (as if to purl), bring yarn to wrap st, slip st back to left needle, turn.
Next Rows: Rep Row 3 and Row 4 until all but the 3 center sts have been wrapped. End having completed a right-side row. Turn.

The Heel Flap was worked back and forth in rows on the sole side of the sock.
Row 1: (wrong side) Purl to 1 stitch before Marker 1. Sl1 (as if to purl), remove marker, slip st back to left needle, P2tog. Turn.
Row 2: (right side) Sl1 (as if to purl). Knit to 1 stitch before Marker 2. Sl st (as if to knit), remove marker, slip next st (as if to knit), place the 2 slipped sts back on left needle, and knit the two slipped sts together through the back loop. Turn.
Row 3: (wrong side) Sl1 (as if to purl), purl to 1 st before gap, P2tog. Turn.
Row 4: (right side) Sl1 (as if to purl), *K1, sl1 (as if to purl); rep from * to 1 st before gap, SSK, Turn.
Next Rows: Rep Row 3 and Row 4 until all the sts on the sole side of the sock have been worked.
End on a right side row. There are now 16 sts on both needles.

The legs are knit in stockinette stitch, just like the foot. As the above photo shows, I ran out of yarn as I completed the heel flap. If I'd had enough yarn, I would have knit an inch or two of leg, then done K1, P1 ribbing for an inch or so, finishing with a Bind Off. The trick to doing a bind-off on a toe-up sock is making it loose enough so the foot and heel can fit through it.

That's it! I guess I'm ready to make Toe-Up 2-at-a-Time Socks with the fingering weight yarn and the US #0 circular needles.

Shaping The Toe

My goal is to be able to knit Toe-Up 2-at-a-Time Socks with fingering weight yarn on one US #0 40 inch circular needle. But first I'm going to knit one Sample Sock with leftover Class Sock Aran / 10 ply (8 wpi) weight yarn on one US #5 40 inch circular needle. There are so many things to remember when learning how to do this that I had to make a list.

1. Judy's Magic Cast-on: 16 sts (8 sts per needle)
   
   
   
   • Yarn tail over index finger.
     
   • Working yarn over thumb.
     
   • Loop around Top Needle.
     
   • Loop bottom needle around yarn tail.
     
   • Loop top needle around working yarn.
     
   • Repeat until there are 8 loops on each needle (16 sts total).
     
   • End with a loop on the bottom needle (tail yarn).
     
   
   
2. Pull tail yarn over working yarn and to the back, out of the way. Knit first side (8 sts), rotate. Place marker on first st.
   
3. Knit through back loops on second side (8 sts), rotate.
   
4. K1, M1R (working yarn to back), Knit to next-to-last st, M1L (working yarn to front), K1, rotate.
   
5. K1, M1R (working yarn to back), Knit to next-to-last st, M1L (working yarn to front), K1, rotate.
   
6. Knit evenly all around.
   
7. Repeat 4., 5., and 6. until there are 32 sts total (16 sts on each needle).
   

I don't know why it has been so difficult for me to get my head wrapped around doing this, but I am making progress, albeit, slowly. I've been doing a lot of frogging.

KnittingHelp.Com: Increases.

Once the toe is shaped, Knit evenly around for the Foot until the Sample Sock measures 2 inches from the tip of the toe.

Webcast with Wendy on TheknitGirllls

This from WendyKnits:

The Knit Girls Video-Cast with Wendy D. Johnson.

Wendy warns that she is very chatty, and the webcast is in five parts, but she looks so svelte. It must be the 'clean diet' she is on. Check out her blog for more about that: Wendy Knits. Her new book is shown, and her shawlettes.

So why are you still reading this?

Judy's Magic Cast-On

Instructions for doing Judy's Magic Cast-On are at her blog, Persistent Illusion. She says:

These instructions assume that you have some familiarity with knitting socks toe-up. The pictures show the Magic Cast-On using two circular needles. Instructions for knitting two socks at the same time and for using the cast-on with DPNs are at the bottom.

I've been learning how to do Judy's Magic Cast-On, and practicing doing toe increases with leftover yarn from the Class Sock and my Hiya US #5 40 inch circular needles. One thing I've discovered is that it seems to make a difference the way I loop the yarn over the top needle for the first stitch.

Judy does it like this:



If the loop of the first stitch is twisted so the tail yarn is in front, and goes to the back over the index finger, then the first two loops are not tied-in to the rest of the cast-on. After you've finished casting-on the number of stitches you need for the toe, turn the needles over and look at the back. There should be purl bumps tying all the stitches together. The thing is, those first two stitches aren't tied in with the rest of the stitches.

This is how I do it:



If the loop of the first stitch is twisted so the working yarn is in front, and goes to the front over the thumb, then the first two loops are tied-in to the rest of the cast-on with purl bumps. Interesting, eh? I don't know if it makes any difference or not.



The thing to remember with Judy's Magic Cast-On is that after I've cast-on all the stitches, I turn the work so the working yarn is on the right, and the right-side (knit stitches) is facing me. I make sure to lock the tail yarn behind the working yarn. Then I slide the working needle out of the loops and knit the first side. Then I rotate the toe, and slide the needles around to do the second side. It is important to knit into the back side of these loops, otherwise they'll be twisted. This is the only side that has to be done that way.

The Magic Cast-On is actually really easy, once it's been done a few times, and after the first two sides have been knit (remembering to position the tail yarn properly, and to knit into the back of the loops on the second side), the toe increases can be started. In Melissa Morgan-Oakes' book, Toe-Up 2-at-a-Time Socks, she uses Backward Loop Increases. She calls them M1R and M1L. M1L is a left-leaning backward loop increase where the working yarn points towards me. M1R is a right-leaning backward loop increase where the working yarn points away from me. It isn't very difficult to do, but does require remembering which is which, since they are used on both sides of the toe. I just try to remember that the R in M1R means Rear (points away from me, to the rear).

So far, it's only taken me about ten tries to figure all this stuff out. That's ten toes cast-on, knitted, and frogged. It's good practice.

New Circular Knitting Needles

Today I got some new circular knitting needles. I finally made a firm decision to learn how to knit Toe-Up 2-at-a-Time Socks on one circular needle. At the LYS I bought Addi-Turbo US #0 40 inch circular needles, and Hiya-Hiya US #1 40 inch circular needles. The plan is to eventually have a complete set of 40 inch circular knitting needles for socks, from US #0 to US #2.

The increments are in millimeters:
US 0 (2.00mm) - 40"
US 1 (2.25mm) - 40"
US 1 (2.50mm) - 40"
US 2 (2.75mm) - 40"
US 2 (3.00mm) - 40"

I don't really know how much of a difference 0.25mm makes when knitting with fingering weight yarn, but I'll find out over time.

Toe-Up 2-at-a-Time Socks

I'm expecting Toe-Up 2-at-a-Time Socks by Melissa Morgan-Oakes to arrive on Friday, the 23rd of April. Currently, my toe-up socks are on a temporary hold until this book arrives. Why?

Well, there's more to socks than meets the eye! Knitting can be as simple as two sticks and some string, or as complex as yarn weight, needle size, knitting tension, and knitting technique.

The gauge swatch for the toe-up socks I'm planning to knit with fingering weight yarn, on US #0 needles, shows that I'm knitting 10 sts per inch. That's pretty tight.

The thing is, I knitted the gauge swatch on a set of five, eight inch, US #0 double-pointed metal (PHILDAR brand) needles (2mm) that were given to me. If I decide to use dpns to knit these toe-up socks, I'll want a second set of dpns, so I can knit both socks at more or less the same time. However, 8 inch dpns are much too long! The LYS has 5 inch dpns, and those are too short. The chain stores that have knitting supplies have 7 inch dpns, and those are still too long.

So the question is, since I'll have to purchase some needles anyway, why not wait a couple of days to see if the technique of knitting two socks on one long circular needle is within my technical ability, or not? If I think I can do it, I'll buy one 40 inch US#0 circular needle, and knit both socks on it. If the technique looks too complex for me, then I'll buy two sets of five needles, six inches long, and do them on dpns.

I kind of like the idea of being able to knit both socks at the same time on one circular needle. I've already been introduced to the Magic Loop technique, when I took the sock class. That was just knitting one sock on one circular needle. I'm thinking it shouldn't be too difficult to take that experience and translate it into doing two socks on one circular needle.

Anyway, that's where I'm at today. I don't have anything on needles at this point. Knitting teaches patience, and so does waiting for a new book to arrive in the mail.

Gauge Swatch with 0 Needles and Fingering Weight Yarn

Today I cast-on 40 sts onto US #0 (2mm) dpns in order to do a gauge swatch for making toe-up socks with fingering weight yarn.

The yarn is Paton's Kroy Sock Yarn, fingering weight (1), 14 wpi, self-striping, 75% Wool, 25% Nylon, given to me by my SO.



After measuring several places around the gauge swatch, it looks like I'm knitting 10 sts and 13 rows per inch.

The calculations for my toe-up socks:

The foot circumference around the ball of the foot is 9.125 inches.
I'm getting 10 sts per inch, and 10 sts X 9.125 = 90.125 sts.
With a 10% negative ease, I'd cast on for 80 sts (divisible by 4).
With a 5% negative ease, I'd cast-on for 84 sts (divisible by 4).
I've decided to go with the 5% negative ease for these socks.

The cool thing with a toe-up sock is, I can fit it as I go, and if
it doesn't fit, I rip-it out and start over, without too much work.
After all, it's only a toe, right?

Also, I can make the leg as high as I want to, or knit until I run
out of yarn. There's no leftover yarn!

Loom Knitting Socks

Loom Knitting Socks by Isela Phelps rounds out my loom knitting library. Most of the patterns in this book are written for the Extra Fine Gauge sock loom, which means I'll have to make one in order to do any of the socks in this book. I'll probably make a 64-peg loom first, since many of the sock patterns are for that loom. A sock loom knitter can use fingering weight yarn with an EFG loom. Extra Fine Gauge means that the pegs are 3/16ths of an inch apart, from the center of one peg to the center of the next peg. The Fine Gauge sock loom pegs are spaced 1/4th of an inch apart. A sock loom knitter should be able to get 7-8 stitches per inch with an EFG loom. The loom knit socks in the book look every bit as fine as their needle-knitted counterparts.

Anyway, PART ONE has patterns for Simple Socks. PART TWO has patterns for Textured Socks. PART THREE has patterns for Colorwork Socks. PART FOUR has patterns for Fancy: Cables & Beads Socks. PART FIVE has patterns for Lace Socks. PART SIX has patterns for Footsies & Other Socks. PART SEVEN has patterns for Kid's Socks. All of the socks patterns in this book are written for Cuff-Down socks, but there is a Toe-Up Method on pages 28-29 with an explanation of how to make a toe-up sock on a 36-peg DA child sock loom with fingering weight yarn.

All in all, this looks like a fun loom socks knitting book.